Reports from the Field

September 1-3, 2001 -Cataloochie Backpack
Smokies: Caldwell Fork Backcountry Campsite #41

The Plan: This was to be a 2-night "very laid back," limited mileage and elevation gain backpack trip, with only a few people being invited. - - We would arrive at the Cataloochie Campground early Saturday afternoon, hike 4.8 miles on the Caldwell Fork Trail to Backcountry Campsite #41, possibly do a short day hike after getting set up, do a loop dayhike on Sunday, and break camp and return home on Monday (perhaps coming out via the Boogerman Trail).

The Reality: In Chattanooga, it rained on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, and the Chattanooga forecast for Saturday was a 70% chance of rain, with 60% on Sunday, and 10% on Monday. - - We went anyway

DOGBUS on tour Saturday: Arriving at the Cataloochie Campground about 2:pm, in the rain, we found it was full. The camp host did not think Backcountry Campsite #41 would be crowded since it had been raining for 3 days. He said there were 9 creek crossings on the Caldwell Fork Trail on our way to campsite #41, but there were footbridges across them. - - Due to concerns about what if the campsite was full, having to set up in the rain, etc., we decided the more prudent choice would be to spend the night in a motel in nearby Maggie Valley.
Consequently we went to Maggie, and after a number of "no vacancy" motels and 2 requiring a 2-night stay, we found a room in a Best Western motel (which only had 2 rooms left after us). It was about 3:30 and the rain had stopped. - - About 4:, we decided to go to Cherokee, where we spent an hour or more in the "Talking Leaves" bookstore (which is oriented toward the Cherokee and Indian history) before returning to Maggie. - - Next we spent time trying to find a restaurant without a long wait to be seated. (It took an hour from the time we were seated until we were finished.)
About 8:45, Chris, Jennifer, & Donald left the motel and walked for a little more than an hour. We were all in bed by 10:30. (Donald slept on the floor.)

Caldwell Barn Sunday: We started getting up at 5:45. Using the microwave oven in the room to heat water, most of us were able to eat the oatmeal, etc. we had planned to eat at the campsite. After taking pictures and partaking of some of the breakfast items the motel provided at 7:, we left at 7:30. - - It was not raining, and the sky was an optimistic, sort of fuzzy, blue

Arriving in the area of the Cataloochie Campground around 8:30, we elected to drive along a 2 ½-mile, single lane, dead end road, with open fields along it where the recently released elk often are seen in the early mornings and late afternoons. We did not see any elk. - - We did inspect the Caldwell house, an old church, an old school house, and an old barn along the road. (We agreed the barn's loft would have been a great place for us to have spent the night since it has a tin roof and looks out on the fields where the elk are seen.)


One of MANY footlogs It was 10:20 when we left the "Dog Bus" in the campground and started hiking. The Caldwell Fork Trail is a horse trail (as are most of the trails in the area). Due to all of the rain, it often had stretches that were very muddy (deep muck).
The first footbridge across Caldwell Branch was immediately encountered. It was about 25 feet long and got noticeably narrower toward the other side. Its handrail was old and rotted, threatening to fall apart on touch. - - Due to being wet, several of the bridges were quite slippery. About a quarter of them did not have a handrail. (Some of the handrails were flimsy and threatened to give way if any pressure was put on them.) Two of our party elected to wade across most of the creek crossings rather than attempt crossing the bridges with a backpack. - - Depending upon whether 3 short split logs, without handrails, in wet areas, were considered bridges, there were 15 to18 bridges (rather than 9 as reported by the camp host).
Due to the muddy trail, the creek crossings (and not being in a hurry), we took 4 hours to complete the 4.8 miles and reach campsite #41(which is actually a collection of campsites). It then took us quite a while to decide which site would best accommodate our 5 tents, had fewer gnats, and would not be in the path of rain coming off the mountainside. (The forecast was for afternoon and nighttime rain.) - - A workable site was finally selected. We set up our tents and Chris and Donald put up a configuration of the two 8 X 10 tarps to hopefully provide enough space and keep us dry should it rain.
And about 4:, the rain did begin, lasting for about an hour. (The tarps worked.) After the rain stopped, we gathered water and firewood (most of which was on the damp side). Everyone worked on locating, cutting and breaking the firewood, and/. or trying to start a fire. Then the rain began again. We abandoned all attempts to have a fire, and sat under the tarps.
About 7:, 7-8 horses and their rain geared-riders came through the campsite. The final horse saw our tarps, thought "shelter," and started heading for us. Its rider, however, guided it back onto the trail, having at least another 4.8 miles to go in the rain (and eventually darkness) before it would be able to find shelter.
About 7:15 we began preparing our suppers under the tarp. About 8:15 we hung our food and related items on one of the bear-proof food hangers. Betty, Kendra, & Jennifer went to their tents to read about 9:. Chris and Donald sat up and talked until about 10:15. When getting ready to go to bed, Chris discovered a small salamander (just a little over an inch long) on her water bottle. Then she found 2 more on her wet tent. - - It rained several times during the night.
Monday: Everyone got up between 7: and 7:15. (Chris found more tiny salamanders on her tent.) The rain stopped and after breakfast (again under the tarps), we broke camp, a real messy chore since everything was so wet. (Donald did not shave; the first time he has failed to do so on a backpack trip..


Donald in the muck Betty and Kendra began the morning discussing the possibility of taking the Big Fork Ridge Trail on the way back, which would bring us out at the end of the dead end road we were on the previous morning (when looking for elk, etc.). Doing so would eliminate all but 2 of the bridge crossings, but would add 2.2 miles (making it a 7-mile trip out) and a climb of 700-800 feet. - - It was the clear majority decision to do so.


It took us from 10: to 2: to cover 4.9 miles (through a lot more, bigger and deeper muddy stretches since there is more horse traffic on this trail). This brought us to the barn on the dead end road. Kendra and Chris waited at it with our backpacks while Betty, Jennifer, & Donald walked the 2.1 miles to the Cataloochie Campground to get the Dog Bus. - - (A little before reaching the dead end road, we passed the pens where the elk were kept after first being relocated to this area.) Bear in tree


On the way to the Dog Bus, Jennifer was shooting up the rest of the pictures on her roll of film, saving 2 in case we were to see elk or a bear. - - As we were coming back in the Dog Bus (on the one lane, dead end road) a young bear was climbing into a 20-foot tall tree beside the road, and right beside us. It apparently was after a hornets' nest. Jennifer got her pictures (and so did Betty).
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When he got home, Donald weighed his pack, which was minus food and drinking water. Due to the wet tent, wet tarps, wet clothes, etc., it weighed 54 pounds.
Participants: Betty Petty, Jennifer Smith, Kendra Cross, Chris Dohmen, Donald Box. Donald Box reporting.

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